Silab, the French manufacturer of cosmetic active ingredients, has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that ensures controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
Silab reports that a new modeling study on menopausal skin identified this deficiency. The company says that reduced ferritinophagy during menopause limits bioavailable iron and contributes to premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging. Silab adds that UV radiation can amplify the process: UV exposure favors degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and causing significant oxidative stress.
Designed to relaunch ferritinophagy
Metallomia is designed to prevent these problems by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, according to Silab. The company says the ingredient facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. It is also said to reduce iron/ferritin complexes, which Silab links to limiting oxidative stress in cases of UV exposure.
The ingredient is therefore positioned around two linked effects: restoring iron availability through ferritinophagy and limiting the consequences of uncontrolled iron release under UV exposure, as described by the company.
Silab claims that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In results reported by the company, Caucasian volunteers showed revitalized skin after 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. In addition, when Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, it prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure, according to Silab.
Marshmallow-root sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia’s development, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company established a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To benefit from the roots’ mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme-engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.